Who Pays the Ferryman?

Alan Haldane (Jack Hedley) disembarks from the aircraft and walks towards the terminal building. This is the pre-facelifted Heraklion Airport in Crete which opened five years earlier.

The terminal building has since been remodelled and extended although the floodlights and control tower are still the same.

His taxi stops outside the 'Capsis Astoria Heraklion Hotel', 11 Eleftherias [Freedom] Square, Heraklion, Crete.

Modernised, but an air of tranquility remains.

He stands outside the hotel, momentarily taking in the sights of new Heraklion.

The frontage of the hotel has been changed completely .

Alan looks out from his hotel room over Plateia Eleftherias to Pl. Kazantzaki and beyond.

He has a flashback to a discussion he had had with his brother back in England, during which he told him that he was going to go back to Crete. 'Miranda Cottage' on Lock Hill in Maldon, Essex.

A change of colour, but otherwise all very much the same.

He walks towards his friend Babis Spiridakis' (Neil McCarthy) office. 25th August Street, Heraklion.

Nowadays a language centre.

Alan enters the front door of 19-21 25th August Street, Heraklion.

Still looks the same today.

The camera pans to an upper level window. 19-21 25th August Street, Heraklion.

It looks like the windows have been changed slightly.

Babis is not in his office, so Alan looks to hire a car and explore the island. The junction of Antoniou Patros and Epimenidou Street, a 1 minute walk from Babis' office. The Kadett is rented from Kafetzakis rent-a-car, which still exists to this day, albeit nearby in newer premises.

It would seem that motorbikes are more popular these days.

In the background behind the signage, is this old building that stands on the corner of Epimenidou Street and Antoniou Patros, Heraklion. No longer visible from this location, where the rent-a-car once stood, due to new building.

Anthony did well to capture the building nevertheless.

Once he rents the car, he drives down 25th August Street.

Nowadays, this street is pedestrianised and this particular stretch is full of café seating areas.

He drives out to the east, towards Agios Nikolaos. This motorway shot is actually of the Kadett travelling westbound taken in the Selinari Canyon on Greek National Road 90, called VOAK.

Taken from the hills just to the west of Annika's house on the old Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos road.

Alan is about to drive into the Vrachasi Tunnel. Viewed from a path running above the mouth of the Tunnel.

He exits the Tunnel and continues his journey along Greek National Road 90 (EO90), also known as the Northern Crete Highway or VOAK)

Once off the Motorway his journey is slowed as he awaits a shepherd guiding his sheep across the road. The old Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos road to the east of Annika's (Betty Arvaniti) house to be first seen in the following capture.

No sheep obstructing the journey today.

He stops and climbs up a hill to the orange groves in which he fought during the war. He meets Annika for the first time. The house is on the outskirts of Vrachasi village up in the mountains.

A wider view of the property and landscape as Annika invites Alan inside for a drink.

A clear view of the house is now obstructed by greenery.

As he leaves, they realise they have a mutual attraction.

The front steps are still the same, however the gate appears to have since been moved closer to the road.

As he walks to his car, he turns back to take another look at Annika. His car is parked in a layby near the house.

Taken from the front veranda of the house.

He then sets off towards the Panagia Kera Kardiotissa Monastery, in the mountains south of Malia from where he has more war memories. This section of road is actually past the monastery, to the south. It is also seen another BBC drama series, 'The Lotus Eaters'.

He gets to the monastery to pay his respects and reminisce with other people there. Panagia Kera Kardiotissa Monastery.

The bell is gone, but the view is the same. The trellis' and beds have since been removed from the courtyard.

He enters the monastery via the main entrance.

Most of the monastery has been tidied up, re-clad, and small buildings constructed here and there, but everything is recognisable.

The monk takes Alan in.

Perhaps more colourful now.

As he continues his drive, he stops for something to eat. This is the Vrachasi Café Mezedopolio in Vrachasi. Alan is sat outside the restaurant, the men are sat across the street.

A menu on display these days with perhaps a little more formality.

He sits on large rectangular concrete blocks and reminisces about the past and about Melina, the woman he met during the war. The concrete blocks were in Agios Nikolaos.

As now evident, the concrete blocks have mostly been removed due to the reconstruction of the headland to incorporate statues.

Whilst parked, he looks up at a WWII pillbox. Almyros, Lassithi 35°10'34"N 25°42'25"E (what3words: standards.cornfield.lingers) off the A90 Palaia EO Agiou Nikolaou - Sitias.

Babis has told Alan that Melina is dead but she had had a baby daughter by him all those years ago. Having disclosed the location of his daughter, he naturally felt bound to drive out to see her. Travelling northbound between Agios Nikolaos and Elounda, the Elounda Beach Hotel is visible on the right.

A low wall at the road edge now provides some measure of security.

He stops to take in the sights of the quaint fishing village. In this shot, the area of Mavrikiano is visible in the hills above Elounda.

Nowadays the seafront in front of the restaurants is full of seating areas, so it makes it difficult to replicate the shot.

Alan finds that she, Elena (Mairi Sokali) and her husband Nikos (Nikos Vassilakis) own a taverna. Back then, it was called the 'Taverna Vassilis', but now 'Ferryman Taverna'.

The modern day 'Ferryman Taverna'.

Nikos calls his son Alexi (Alexis Sergis) in for his dinner. It's at this moment that Alan realises Alexi is his grandson.

It is difficult to replicate the angle, as a building has been constructed in the foreground that obscures the capture view completely.

We are introduced to William Hebden (Jack Watson) who, with his daughter Jo (Lalla Ward), is visting the island to reminisce about his war time experiences. Here re-enacting an attack on a German personnel carrier. Just off the National Road 90 near Limnes.

The only shot fired was from Anthony's camera.

Suitably impressed, Jo hugs her father in admiration.

A reverse of the previous shot, even with a strategically parked white car.

Babis goes to see Alan, who is staying at his apartment in Elounda. The apartment is next door to the taverna. Only this staircase separates them.

It can be seen that the open corridor has now been closed up with a door and windows installed.

Jo Hebden looks around the souvenir shops whilst her father regales the locals with tales from the war. This is across the street from the café where her father is in the following capture. This building has been demolished and a new structure built.

Her father has the locals engrossed in his tales. This café is on Eleftherios Venizelos Street at the junction with 25th March Street in Malia.

Where do the 'oldies' go now to consider life?

His tales are overheard.

Busier roads now with more street furniture.

Annika goes to see Alan whilst Matheos (Takis Emmanuel), travelling with her, delivers olive oil to the taverna. Elounda.

This is the alleyway between the 'Ferryman Taverna' and the apartment opposite.

Hebden and daugher Jo approach Elounda.

The shot was taken from the 'Vritomartes Restaurant'.

Hebdens particular war memories, accounts and involvement have inflamed at least one man who threatens to kill him. Two boys run along to see Pavlos Makridakis leave his house, as do the police. Unknown location.

Some locals are gathered outside to see him off. Unknown location.

The tension grows as the appearance of Pavlos is awaited. Unknown location.

Pavlos Makridakis leaves his home. Unknown location.

And with his wife, 'side saddle' behind him on a donkey, travel slowly towards Elounda.

As they decend from the mountains, Elounda comes into their view. Filmed from the Fourni to Elounda road, above Upper Elounda.

Hebden weeps after having been pressed into admitting his war stories were a lie. Whilst his actual life has been spared, the humiliation has done almost as much damage. This is the right-hand column outside the Church of St. Constantine and Helen in Elounda village.

A full view of the Church in order to give an appreciation of the location and screen capture element.

Alan begins fixing up the kaiki that Andreas Hadjieleftheris gave to him in the previous episode. This is on the pier adjacent to the 'Despina Taverna', just outside Elounda village.

This shot was filmed from the end of one of two piers that now stand there providing a more generaous view of how the location has developed.

A bus enters town and the camera pans to Babis' office where Annika is seeking more detail about Alan. Looking up 25th August Street in Heraklion.

Later we see Annika leave. The building on the left is the Bank of Greece and is still there. 25th August Street in Heraklion.

Alan hitches a lift back to Heraklion with Matheos so that he can pick up a car for himself from customs. The National Road 90 between Limnes and Agios Nikolaos.

Matheos goes to the post office to send a fake letter from Alan to Lorna (Ann Lynn), an ex-girlfriend, inviting her to Crete. Heraklion post office, Hatzimichalis Giannari looking towards the City Court House.

Alan has purchased the car due to non-payment of customs charges, and begins the drive back to Elounda - via Annika's house. Leof. Nearchou, Heraklion looking west. A 1965 Fiat 850 Spider.

Taken from outside what is now the Government offices for the Water Directorate of Crete and featuring the historic Venetian Harbour arches.

An elderly lady empties a bucket - this is an establishing shot for the discussion between Babis and Katerina Matakis (Patience Collier), Annika's mother at her home concerning the future of the taverna. Kremasta Monastery outside Vryses.

The capture shot is along the front of the upper floor of the building seen here but this wider shot provides an appreciation of the location.

An establishing shot of Elounda from up in the hills above Mavrikiano.

This shot was taken from the cemetery

Katerina Matakis visits the priest in Dafnai to tell him not to bury Antonis Viglis who died in Australia and who's body has been brought back, as he wished, for burial. The village of Flamouriana doubles for Dafnai.

Annika and Alan drive into the village. Flamouriana.

They drive slowly past the restaurant that is now 'O Kritikos'.

They park up close by in front of this house. Flamouriana.

Just a few changes.

As they go for a walk around the village in which Annika grew up in, they pass a church. Taken from the roof of the church in Fourni.

And walk into the courtyard of the church. Fourni.

Perhaps a little more cared for now.

They continue their walk through the famous archway. Fourni.

Sadly, the archway has crumbled away and is a safety hazard.

The reverse shot through the archway. Fourni.

Due to the area being closed off, getting an accurate comparative shot is now impossible.

Walking down an alleyway they meet locals and donkeys. Fourni.

The clay pot on the corner roof is still there

Eventually arriving at the house where she was born. Fourni.

This house is located at the very edge of the village, at it's highest point.

Tony Viglis (Gareth Thomas) who brought his grandfathers body back from Australia for burial, parks up and goes to see the priest. Flamouriana, where Alan and Annika parked up earlier.

A view of the village for historic record.

Viglis then goes to the restaurant where Annika and Alan are having lunch to ask where he can find the priest. Whereupon the villagers beat him up. Flamouriana, Crete.

This was shot from the restaurant that is now called 'O Kritikos'.

After the attack, the Major goes to the village to conduct his investigation. Flamouriana, Crete.

Again, shot from the front of the restaurant.

Alan visits Annika and asks her to do something to help get Antonis Viglis buried in Dafnai. Outside the village of Vrachasi.

Annika's house just outside the village of Vrachasi.

The Police take Viglis' coffin to the cemetery and it seems the whole village is there to prevent the burial from happening. The outskirts of Fourni.

As one might expect, it remains respectfully tended.

Viglis finally lays his grandfather to rest with Annika's and her brother Petros' blessing.

This is the reverse view from the chapel, Capture 68, facing out to the rear.

Alan takes his kaiki out to sea for the first time and around Spinalonga.

This was taken from Spinalonga itself, looking towards the northern tip of Kalydon opposite.

They cross themselves as Spinalonga was an island where many people suffered. Here just south-east of the island and what was once a leper colony.

The approach to Spinalonga where the landing spot is on the south side.

Xenophon Hasabis (Nikos Kouros) and his sons challenge Alan to a race on Easter Sunday to establish who has the best boat. In the background is part of the Oxia mountains to the south west of Elounda.

Many buildings have been erected in front of the white building behind the two men, and there are now trees which obscure much of this view.

As a prize, Xenophon proposes that the winner keeps the others boat. Alan accepts the challenge. Behind him is the 'Despina Taverna'.

The Taverna is still there today.

Whilst away from his home, it was trashed, so Alan goes to visit Babis. 25th August Street, Heraklion, Crete.

As part of the Easter celebrations, the congregation walk around the church.

The ladies have coloured the eggs and take them to the children to crack. Akti Olountos, Elounda.

This is what is now 'Vritomartes' Restaurant in Elounda. The ladies are walking across the bridge that connects the restaurant to the front.

Alan sails again, moors his kaiki to the pier and says hello to the man watching him. He's also being watched by the vindictive Matheos.

The double pier has since been made into one large one.

At Easter, the congregation lights candles and spreads the light to everyone else. Church of St. Constantine and Helen in Elounda.

It has hardly changed.

Alan and Xenophon prepare to race their kaikis around Spinalonga and back again. Whilst filmed in the bay, strangely enough, the kaikis are pointed towards the east and not north.

Alan wins the race, but is obliged to survey the smoking ruins of his kaiki after the celebrations. The Major tells him that he knows who has done it, but can't prove it yet. Filmed next to the piers near the 'Despina Taverna', and not where the fire happened.

As now.

Episode 5 closes with a view of Spinalonga as viewed from Plaka area of Elounda.

A more colourful view from the same spot.

Alan and Annika find Duncan Neve (Patrick Magee) laid out in the road, injured after his truck fell on him.

They take him to a doctor in Neapolis, who confirmed it was a broken collar bone. Off the central square in Neapolis.

The gate and railings are long gone.

Katerina Matakis sees her daughter driving with Alan much to her disappointment. Also filmed in the main street in Neapolis.

It would've been rude of me to ask the men to move so that I could get this photo.

A long establishing shot of Meligala as Alan drives Neve home whilst his truck is being fixed.

Alan and Neve arrive at the village to be greeted by Samantha (Sally Knyvette).

They continue to walk through Meligala and offer to take Alan in for the night in view of his long drive home.

Their house is a ramshackle affair, but it's home. This village is called Roussapidia and Neve's house is on the outskirts of the village.

Some evident changes through the years.

When it is found that Neve is actually Bernard Kingsley who is wanted in England for the murder of his wife some years previously Alan rushes to Meligala to warn him that the Police are on their way to pick him up.

There are two roads that lead to the village, this particular gravel road leads back up to the main road that runs along the mountainside.

Samantha rushes to tell the other villagers that the Police are coming to take Duncan away.

The Police arrive, and Neve does not want to run any more.

He is taken back to town to begin extradition to England.

Alan says goodbye to Neve at the airport as he starts his return journey to England. This is the old departures lounge at Heraklion airport. The whole interior has been remodelled so none of this is recognisable.

Samantha discusses Kingsley's potential return to Meligala with Alan.

Samantha looks at the men drilling as Alan's news has given her hope.

Looking down the same hill - not much has changed in nearly 50 years.

Another long shot of the village for the end credits sequence.

Episode 7 opens with a long shot of Kalydon. The white buildings are the Elounda Island Villas.

This was shot from beside the double pier where Alan's kaiki, 'The Knot', is being restored. The pier adjacent to the 'Despina Taverna', just outside Elounda village. Also seen in Capture 46.

Alan has completed the repairs to his kaiki and it is hauled back into the sea with the help of the villagers. A reverse shot from the water.

The villagers wave goodbye as 'The Knot', as he has named it, is taken on another maiden voyage.

Alan visits Melina's grave. Neapoli cemetery.

The straight lines softened by further greenery.

As Alan leaves the cemetery we are left with a close up of Melina's grave. The Neapoli cemetery.

As would be expected it remains well tended.

Babis goes to see Katerina Matakis on business. He also tried to persuade her to visit Annika's house to attend the signing of the partnership for the redevelopment of 'Taverna Vassilis'. This is Kremasta monastery near Vryses.

A number of changes.

Nikos is having trouble getting the car started. Alan offers to help, then takes Alexi with him in his Fiat.

Taken from the waterfront outside the taverna, facing west. Again, Mavrikiano is the village in the hills in the distance.

Alan and Alexi make their way to Annika's house, here passing the bell tower of the St. Constantine and Helen church headed eastbound to the mountains.

It doesn't look as though that palm tree survived.

Matheos is waiting for them, his Datsun parked outside the church from where he slowly follows them into the mountains. The Church of Agios Konstantinos and Agia Eleni, Elounda.

A substantial increase of building and traffic in the intervening years.

Matheos keeps his distance. The mountains above Upper Elounda.

A long shot of the garden of Annika's house on the outskirts of the village Vrachasi. Alan and Alexi are flying a kite after the signing of contracts. Meanwhile Matheos 'fixes' the brakes on Alan's Fiat Spider, unaware that, he will be lending it to Nikos who continues to have starting problems.

This is to the north of the house, facing south.

Babis, Annika and Alan arrive at the inevitable crash site. The bodies of Nikos, Elena and Alexi are being recovered from the wreckage. This bend is near to the village of Vryses.

The road does at least now have a barrier.

Matheos makes a run for it. He rushes to go and enlist his brother's help. The main square in Neapolis provides the backdrop for this escape.

The main square in Neapolis backdrop as it is today.

He drives past the Panagia Church in Neapolis.

Today this view is largely obscured by trees.

Annika says a prayer at Panagia Kera Kardiotissa monastery in Kera. This is in the mountains to the south of Malia.

Not much has changed over the decades.

Annika looks out to the mountains and wonders where Alan and Matheos are. Panagia Kera Kardiotissa monastery.

It remains a calm and peaceful place to visit.

Alan is hot on the heels of Matheos and his brother. This is the Agios Ioannis Theologos church in Theologos, just outside Kritsa.

Changes have been effected through the years but elements remain.

He passes the house where George Kaladis (Labros Kotsiris) has been shot by the brothers. Unknown location.

Annika knows the whole story by now, and visits her mother to spare her no mercy. Kremasta monastery, the other side of the gate seen in previous episodes.

Extended greenery with clear care and attention.

Alan becomes involved in a gun fight with the brothers with the result that he is taken to hospital. This is Venizelio hospital in Heraklion. The front entrance may have been remodelled as the hospital has been extensively renovated over the years.

Annika and Alan visit Melina's grave. Neapoli Cemetery.

Haldane looks at Annika before they leave. Neapoli Cemetery

The series ends, as did Episode 5 (81) with a shot of Spinalonga as Alan and Annika sail 'The Knot' together in mutual silence. The positioning of Kalydon tells us that this was taken from the Plaka area north of Elounda.

Now with improved colour representation.